Loch Cuithir and the Diatomite Line.
Start. Inver Tote.
Route. Inver Tote (An leth-alt view point) - Lealt - Diatomite Railway (dismantled) - Loch Cuithir - Lealt - Inver Tote.
Notes. This walk explores a small slice of the industrial heritage of the Trotternish Peninsula, a straight forward ramble to Loch Cuithir, site of diatomite workings. Over a hundred years ago this was an industrial place, diatomite was dredged from the bed of the loch, before being transported via a narrow gauge railway to Inver Tote for processing. Extracted from the bed of freshwater lochs diatomite is a mineral similar to china clay with many uses, insulation, sound and fireproofing, it is also used in products such as beverages, sugars and cosmetics as is china clay. Business boomed until the 1950s when Staffin diatomite became too expensive to produce.
This walk started at the Inver Tote (An leth-alt view point) where a viewing platform reaches out over the sylvan gorge cut by the Lealt River, across the road a narrow ribbon of tarmac heads into the wilderness, this we followed. First tarmac guided us, after passing the tiny community of Lealt tarmac ended to be replaced by a hard packed stone track, we continued wandering towards the Trotternish Ridge, the obvious peak of Sgurr a’ Mhadaidh Ruaidh (Hill of the Red Fox) dominated the view. Further up the track to our left the clear remains of lazy beds came into view, this was a traditional method of arable cultivation. The idea was to lift the sods of peat (all done by hand using a spade) then apply desalinated seaweed fertiliser to improve the soil.
Still guided by the track we reached the remains of a narrow gauge railway, we left the track, the railway then guided us. Mostly this was an easy route but every so often where bridges had collapsed, bog-hopping was required, eventually we reached Loch Cuithir, a beautiful loch in the most dramatic of settings. We sat around, had a late lunch, marveled at the scene before us. Sgurr a’ Mhadaidh Ruaidh dwarfing everything around, the massive cliffs of Creag a’ Lain with Bealach na Leacaich leading to Flasvein. The Trotternish Ridge running north and south and amongst all this turmoil a delightful, peaceful lochan that at one time wouldn’t have been so peaceful, you completely forget your exploring a once industrial place.
Time to head back we joined the track that guided us in for most of the way, it felt like a long walk out but once back at the car there was one more thing to see. Although we didn’t descend the cliffs to explore (I wish we had), below our feet a shore line that was once a busy workplace. Local people cleaning and drying diatomite ready to be shipped out by boat (Clyde Puffers). There was even a fishing station here regularly invaded by seals such was the hardship endured by the people of Trotternish.
The Lealt Falls are a popular stop off point on any road trip around Skye, this is the Upper Falls seen from the viewing platform..
Seen over the valley cut by the Lealt River, from left to right Baca Ruadh, the pyramid like Sgurr a' Mhadaidh Ruaidh (Hill of the Red Fox) and Flasvein.
From the narrow lane leading to Lealt views to The Storr, squint you can just make out the Old Man of Storr, below the cliffs to the left.
Lazy beds passed en route.
The formidable cliffs of Sgurr a' Mhadaidh Ruaidh and Flasvein dominate the view on this walk into Loch Cuithir.
The Lealt River with views to The Storr.
Our first steps on the Diatomite Railway.
Looking back over a vast expanse of desolate moorland to the mountains of Wester Ross.
Heading through the wild emptiness of the Trotternish Peninsula.
The prospect north takes in Meall na Suiramach and the darker Sron Vourlinn.
Cutting through a wild landscape of trackless peat bog the Diatomite Railway.
A wild sky to match a wild landscape.
Once an industrial place where man toiled extracting Diatomite from the bed of Loch Cuithir.
Sue posses for a shot in the shadow of Sgurr a' Mhadaidh Ruaidh.
The cliffs of Creag a' Lain with Bealach na Leacaich to the right.
An inspiring place this water filled hollow in the shadow of the Trotternish Ridge.
Held in the palm of the mountains rocky hand Loch Cuithir.
A gem in a mountain setting, Loch Cuithir, a place to come back to.
Walking back over the surface of a compact stoney track cutting through a ragged mattress of wild moorland.
Looking back to the Trotternish Ridge.
Draining the mires above Inver Tote the Lealt River.
Nearing Inver Tote, that grey structure that sticks out like a sore thumb is the viewing platform.
Looking down on the drying sheds of the Diatomite Works.
The Lower Lealt Falls seen from half way down the cliff.